Fj45 Pickup Standard Alternator

1. Toyota Fj45 Truck

Actually it's a DIODE placed in the sense circuit, to create a voltage drop so the alternator increases the output by the amount of drop across the rectifier.(If you put a resistor in there would be no drop because you don't get a voltage drop across a resistor unless you have current flowing thru it.)You can do the same by buying a 5 cent 1 amp diode to replace your 7.5 amp sense fuse. I made one up about 6 years ago which I carry with my spares incase I need it, as the volts get a bit low when hot for a long time in the hot outback. Is there any update on this? I am looking to boost my charging voltage by 0.5 volts or so.My dual battery system (national luna) usually fails to charge my second battery at idle (after warm-up) due to the lower alternator output (voltage drops below 12.7 volts, and the battery isolator trips and isolates the batteries, especially if I'm running extra lights/accessories). Voltage goes up if I rev the engine slightly, but at pure idle, it drops below the cut off point of the dual battery controller.What is the normal idle voltage on the 100 series, approx 14 volts? Hopefully the alternator is not on it's way out. The truck's got 125,000 miles.

Hi there most jeeps are built to a military standard, which is carry 1000kg tow 3500kg this is if the vehicle in question has a chassis. This will be the min so you will find your jeep might do more but you should be safe to use this as a rule if it is Japanese, USA or Land Rover product. Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Engine Electrical.

Remove two 14 mm bolts on top and bottom of alternator - top is a nut - bottom is a bolt. Remove two clips on side of alternator - they are simply holding the electrical line in place and out of the way of the serpentine belt. Pinch the back of the clips and push them out of the alternator clip.

Is there any update on this? I am looking to boost my charging voltage by 0.5 volts or so.My dual battery system (national luna) usually fails to charge my second battery at idle (after warm-up) due to the lower alternator output (voltage drops below 12.7 volts, and the battery isolator trips and isolates the batteries, especially if I'm running extra lights/accessories). Voltage goes up if I rev the engine slightly, but at pure idle, it drops below the cut off point of the dual battery controller.What is the normal idle voltage on the 100 series, approx 14 volts? Hopefully the alternator is not on it's way out.

The truck's got 125,000 miles. If your volt meter is reading correctly, then I suspect you have an issue with your alternator as the 100 series are usually around the 14.2 to 14.6. My 80 series TD puts out 14.6.The generally accepted range of volts out of an alternator for charging is between 13.8 volts to 14.6 volts. On some newer vehicles, (2009 onwards) the manufacturers are electing to us ECU controlled alternators to aid fuel economy and emission figures. Once the starting battery/s reach sufficient charge to start the vehicle (usually around 80%) the alternator drops to a supply voltage of around 13.2 volts.The minimum voltage to charge a wet cell lead acid battery effectively for optimum performance is 13.8, calcium/calcium sealed maintenance free lead acid is around 14.2 and for flat plate fully sealed agm, gel or spiral wound agm the voltage needs to be 14.4.So far, the vehicles that I know for certain with these alternators are Toyota LC200, all 70 series and prado 150 series. Toyota started using these alternators around 2009/2010.So using these diode's to trick the alternator is only needed if you are wanting to use one of the newer technology batteries that require 14.2 or 14.4 and your alternator is only putting out 13.8 or less. If you are achieving voltages of 14.6, count yourself lucky to have a perfect charge voltage.

Over 14.6, you will cook your batteries.My only concern with these Alternator Voltage Booster diodes is that some of them require you to replace the 7.5 amp fuse with the diode and the one I tried about 12 months ago did not blow even at 20amps.Instead I elect to find the wire that runs between the fuse and the alternator and cut and solder a quick connector in. This allows the ability to replace the diode(built into the quick connector) with a simple jumper wire, returning the vehicle to standard but most importantly retaining the factory 7.5amp fuse.Please remember these figures are for optimum performance and are only for 12 volt systems. If your volt meter is reading correctly, then I suspect you have an issue with your alternator as the 100 series are usually around the 14.2 to 14.6.

My 80 series TD puts out 14.6.The generally accepted range of volts out of an alternator for charging is between 13.8 volts to 14.6 volts. On some newer vehicles, (2009 onwards) the manufacturers are electing to us ECU controlled alternators to aid fuel economy and emission figures. Once the starting battery/s reach sufficient charge to start the vehicle (usually around 80%) the alternator drops to a supply voltage of around 13.2 volts. The minimum voltage to charge a wet cell lead acid battery effectively for optimum performance is 13.8, calcium/calcium sealed maintenance free lead acid is around 14.2 and for flat plate fully sealed agm, gel or spiral wound agm the voltage needs to be 14.4.So far, the vehicles that I know for certain with these alternators are Toyota LC200, all 70 series and prado 150 series. Toyota started using these alternators around 2009/2010.So using these diode's to trick the alternator is only needed if you are wanting to use one of the newer technology batteries that require 14.2 or 14.4 and your alternator is only putting out 13.8 or less.

If you are achieving voltages of 14.6, count yourself lucky to have a perfect charge voltage. Over 14.6, you will cook your batteries. So far, the vehicles that I know for certain with these alternators are Toyota LC200, all 70 series and prado 150 series. Toyota started using these alternators around 2009/2010.So using these diode's to trick the alternator is only needed if you are wanting to use one of the newer technology batteries that require 14.2 or 14.4 and your alternator is only putting out 13.8 or less. If you are achieving voltages of 14.6, count yourself lucky to have a perfect charge voltage.

Over 14.6, you will cook your batteries. You're overthinking this. If your battery is a 12 volt battery, and you don't have excessive resistance between the alternator's output and battery post, leave it alone. I realize the battery provider will dictate an optimum voltage, but that voltage is a function of the alternator, regulator, resistance, temperature, load, RPM.etc. It is dynamic and based upon the numbers you've provided, you're fine. The voltage range Toyota provides is wide for a reason.

The marginal benefit you'll achieve by goosing your voltage higher probably isn't worth the trouble of manipulating the voltage. If it really bothers you, plug the batteries into the charger at home once a week. Just my opinion. You're overthinking this. If your battery is a 12 volt battery, and you don't have excessive resistance between the alternator's output and battery post, leave it alone.

I realize the battery provider will dictate an optimum voltage, but that voltage is a function of the alternator, regulator, resistance, temperature, load, RPM.etc. It is dynamic and based upon the numbers you've provided, you're fine. The voltage range Toyota provides is wide for a reason. The marginal benefit you'll achieve by goosing your voltage higher probably isn't worth the trouble of manipulating the voltage.

If it really bothers you, plug the batteries into the charger at home once a week. Just my opinion.

At least personally I don't intend to use a voltage booster but the thread led me to two concerns that seem legit (i.e. Not overthinking):1) if one is on the low end of the alternator voltage range or lower (some posted numbers lower than 13.2) doesn't that indicate either an alternator problem - perhaps new brushes or a new alternator are in order?2) if an alternator is within toyota spec and it still cant get close to the output needed to charge an agm battery then is it true that the agm can't ever get fully charged?

In other words if having an agm battery requires higher voltage than we're capable of getting off our alternators to charge fully, and therefore requires manually charging once a week, personally it is not worth the hassle and I would never have gotten the agm battery. I'd sooner swap out the new diehard platinum for a crappy old school battery IF it's impossible for my alternator to full charge my agm. I don't think manually charging every week is acceptable or worth it (to me).But this thread was the first where I saw specifics on what voltage an agm battery needs to fully charge. If those numbers were overstated or inaccurate or there's more to the story I'd love to know. But hearing that a manual charge every week is needed is not comforting and does not seem like a real solution - if the real problem is low/out of spec alternator output the fix should be new brushes, new alternator or perhaps for some voltage booster. If the real problem is agm battery demanding more than our systems are capable of and the only solution is either voltage booster or charging manually weekly then at least for me i'll strongly consider reverting to an old school battery. The answer to item one is not necessarily.

If the current is high relative to the RPM, your voltage will inherently be low. The voltage reading alone doesn't provide enough information to determine if there's a problem. 13.2v at 100 amps at 1300 rpm would be excellent performance. 14.5 at 20 amps at 6,000 rpm would also be excellent performance provided the battery load is 20 amps.The answer to item two is what do you consider 100% charge and under what conditions? Alternators don't equalize batteries, they maintain batteries. Under perfect laboratory conditions, I'm sure Odyssey has an optimum charging profile, as well as an acceptable range which will conform to generally accepted automotive ranges in voltage that typical voltage regulators induce.I'm running an Odyssey and and Odyssey Sears Platinum.

I've been running them now for 2 or 3 years. They work fine even though my output voltage varies from below cut-in voltage at idle, to 14.3 at elevated rpms. Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I think you are looking for a problem that doesn't exist based upon what Odyssey would like to see for 'optimum' battery performance in a perfect world.

I don't drive my Land Cruiser every day and as such, I'll hook up the garage charger once every few weeks just for good measure. Is it necessary? Probably not. Will it allow my batteries to last longer? It certainly doesn't hurt them. If AGM batteries perform better when elevated voltage is applied so they become fully absorbed, then that's fine.

But they're also designed to perform on automotive platforms where the voltage range of 'acceptable' doesn't necessarily provide perfectly controlled, lab-ideal voltage and current.I previously had $65 Interstate lead acid batteries that lasted close to 7 years. We'll see how the Odysseys compare over time. At least personally I don't intend to use a voltage booster but the thread led me to two concerns that seem legit (i.e. Not overthinking):1) if one is on the low end of the alternator voltage range or lower (some posted numbers lower than 13.2) doesn't that indicate either an alternator problem - perhaps new brushes or a new alternator are in order?2) if an alternator is within toyota spec and it still cant get close to the output needed to charge an agm battery then is it true that the agm can't ever get fully charged? In other words if having an agm battery requires higher voltage than we're capable of getting off our alternators to charge fully, and therefore requires manually charging once a week, personally it is not worth the hassle and I would never have gotten the agm battery. I'd sooner swap out the new diehard platinum for a crappy old school battery IF it's impossible for my alternator to full charge my agm.

I don't think manually charging every week is acceptable or worth it (to me).But this thread was the first where I saw specifics on what voltage an agm battery needs to fully charge. If those numbers were overstated or inaccurate or there's more to the story I'd love to know. But hearing that a manual charge every week is needed is not comforting and does not seem like a real solution - if the real problem is low/ou of spec alternator output the dix should be new brushes, new alternator or perhaps for some voltage booster. If the real problem is agm battery demanding nore than our systems are capable of and the only solution is either vomtage booster or charging manually weekly then at least for me i'll strongly consider reverting to an old school battery. Agaisin - exactly what alternator toyota started using didn't necessarily change. Toyota used the ECU to make the changes to the regulator therefor reducing pressure on the motor - improving fuel economy.

Toyota (and all the 4WD manufacturers) simply don't care if you plan to have dual batteries. They build the car and electrical system to work for the car only. And if you never go camping or ever run fridges or plan to put in a dual battery system, then you will never encounter this problem.

Now, for adding a diode in the 100, I found that there is a short-pin in series with the alt-s fuse, so that it is possible to just pull out the short-pin and push in the diode, as long as it comes in a package that fits the socket.This short pin is in gasoline and diesel vehicles from 7/2002 production, not the earlier years, and sits in the middle of the fuse-box in the engine compartment. It's called Short Pin B, and is a long, black latch across the two rows of fuses. Now, the problem is that this long black bar consists of two short-pins in one package with 4 connectors. One (the interesting one) between the two end pins (pin 1 - 2) and the other between the two inner pins (3-4). The second short-pin/latch is in series with fuse NV-IR, which is the middle fuse in the rear row, next to this short-pin, in some vehicles numbered 6 and in others fuse #10.In my Owner's Manual, the fuse NV-IR is marked 'No Circuit', so I suppose I can just forget about the second part of that short-pin-bar.

I haven't been able to find out what NV-IR is. Does anyone know?Edit: See changes/additions below.

Toyota Fj45 Truck

I would agree with most of what Cruisernet has stated, except that the change from using a conventional internal or external voltage regulator to controlling the alternator via an ECU output doesn't reduce 'pressure' on the motor. The alternator is still under load which still sucks power from the motor, regardless of the regulator location.

My understanding is the push to move the regulator to the ECU is like everything else in the automotive world.driven by cost. It's one less component in the alternator subjected to inherent heat. Also, using an ECU-based PWM regulator allows the computer to better control the alternator's response more precisely as it derives feedback like engine load, battery temperature, air temperature, etc.

I would agree with most of what Cruisernet has stated, except that the change from using a conventional internal or external voltage regulator to controlling the alternator via an ECU output doesn't reduce 'pressure' on the motor. The alternator is still under load which still sucks power from the motor, regardless of the regulator location. My understanding is the push to move the regulator to the ECU is like everything else in the automotive world.driven by cost. It's one less component in the alternator subjected to inherent heat. Also, using an ECU-based PWM regulator allows the computer to better control the alternator's response more precisely as it derives feedback like engine load, battery temperature, air temperature, etc. To constantly optimize the target charging voltage to achieve better fuel economy, load response curve and startup, better emissions by retarding the alternator load until the engine is more efficient, etc. You are most likely correct.

We do not specifically deal with how an alternator works. What we do know is that by controlling the alternators output via the ECU Toytoa can reduce the voltage once the 'starting' batteries are charged sufficiently (not 100%) to start the car next time which in turn achieved better fuel economy and therefor lower emissions and yes, it is probably a cheaper way of doing it.

Exactly how they do this is beyond my knowledge but this is the information that was given to us by the engineers from the inner sanctum of Toyota Australia. I completely agree that achieving the longest run time for a fridge is dependant on the ambient temp, how well it is stocked and how often one opens a fridge to retrieve its contents.However that said, the state of charge of a battery would be just as important. I absolutely agree that elevated voltage will achieve more efficient charging of batteries that have a specific chemistry that lend themselves to higher voltage and I absolutely agree that by placing a diode on the regulator's sense circuit, it will fool the alternator into creating higher voltage.this is not a new concept.

I suppose you could even use a potentiometer to sweep the full voltage range you want to hit. To that end, you could also use an external adjustable voltage regulator. But you're adding more parts and complexity to a system that works fairly well for the intended purpose, so I guess it just becomes a personal preference issue as to whether one monkeys with the voltage or not. Mobi-arc - we are a big believer of the KISS principal and yes the diode idea is not new, we have been installing them for the past 2 years. Our first was a 200 series pulling a 20foot caravan with 2 AGM batteries and another AGM under the bonnet. His system was installed by another company (And it was physically installed perfectly with very little voltage loss) and they sent him to us. The vehicles voltage was simply too low to charge the Aux batteries without the use of a mains power charger.As we had not heard about the diode before, we took a couple of days to come up with the idea and also the method to implement it.

As this was a 2 month old $120,000 car, we discussed the idea with the customer and that the Toyota Engineers couldn't give us an idea of the side affects from doing such a thing. After agreeing to the solution we asked him to return or call the second he had a problem. We heard from him 1 month after to say everything is perfect now. He and his wife are still travelling Australia (Half their luck) and have yet to have a flat battery.We are answering these questions numerous times a day and what we keep hearing is that 'I did my research on the INTERNET and there was nothing about this!' .My aim is to try to spread the word that charge voltage in respect of the type of battery you are using in a cycling application is very important to running your accessories.Catchya laterP.S. I'll let you know when it goes on sale. I know Stan at DC Power.known him for over ten years back when he was with Wrangler NW Power Products.

My assumption is that if Stan says it's good, it's good. They're making really nice billet CNC'd front and rear housing which is not a cheap process. Regarding 180 to 200 amps at idle.I would respectfully suggest that sounds optimistic. Regarding DC Electric alternators being used with MOBI as the source of current, it would be a really nice welder and Stan can pre-configure the alternator for direct connection to MOBI.

Requirements are no avalanche diodes, able to be regulated externally with either A or B circuit, and a solid robust design with healthy current output. MOBI will take care of the rest.Feel free to ring us to discuss.

Click to expand.Not quite 100% there Andrew,All it means is the 100A alternator has higher ability than the 80A alternator to produce electricity.When you are driving with all your lights on, you may consume around 30 amps, both alternators will consume the same power from the engine to generate this '30A'Where the 80A alternator will run at 100% to develop 80A, the 100A alternator will only be developing 80% of its capability of 100A.So in short, both alternators will consume the same power from the engine up to 80A.Graham. That isn't quite how electricity work. The alternator doesn't just blast out 120 amps all the time down every wire at 12v. Each electrical thingy essentially drawers what current it needs. When you have lots of things running, like a winch for example, your alternator can run out of puff. Having one with more capacity means that you can supply more charge back to your battery as and when it demands it. Most of the time your alternator isn't running at peak.

Especially on a diesel. You're just about using it to power the radio and dashboard lights.And that's about as much as I understand.Chris. Click to expand.If you wire in additional accessors to the original wiring then yes you will, what I would recommend to do is to run additional wires from the battery to an auxiliary fuse box and that power to your accessories from there.

You may also want to consider replacing the wiring from the alternator to the battery for a thicker cable to ensure you do not burn out the cable during excessive loading.I did this on my old Volvo and it worked fine, no more typing in the radio code every time the engine revs dropped so I assume it worked well. I did not change any of the wiring as all the other electicals were standard so there was no additional current demand. OK so here is a really simple explanation. No you do not have to do anything with your wires.OK, pretend I own a coal delivery business. I have a street with 30 houses.

They all burn one bag of coal per day. I have a lorry that carries 30 bags. Each day I deliver 30 bags, everyone's happy and I come home empty. One day, I buy a bigger lorry. I now can carry 40 bags of coal, but every day I come home with 10 bags still on.

No one needs them. Shortly after that, some new houses are built. And they all want a bag each every day.

Well fancy that. I have that capacity. 10 spare bags.

I can supply that and we're all happy. No one needed to build a bigger fire place, I didn't need bigger bags, the coal didn't burn any hotter. Every house got what it needed.Now if someone builds some more houses, I will need a bigger lorry!Does that make sense? In short, who ever is telling you about needing bigger wires is talking complete bollocks. Mrs Smith at number 11 doesn't care what Mr Crabtree at 29 puts on his fire. But if he's cold and wants another bag on Tuesday, he can have one - it doesn't affect anyone else.

UNLESS I only have a small lorry and can't carry enough coal for everyone. So, you stick a bigger alternator on, IF you have times when you want a bit more power because of high demand.

Let's say winching or running something extra like a compressor. It makes no difference to the other things running on your car.Chris. Chris, say you double the current capacity of the alternator and have a winch wired directly to your battery hopefully via a fuse or a kill switch of some sort and use adequate wiring, you will probably need to upgrade the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery. So taking your coal business analogy further, say you have a single track driveway to your coal depot and you are now delivering coal to an entire town you may want to expand the single track driveway to fit 2 lorries side by side.Also if you attach say a winch to your cigarette lighter socket and fit a 200 amp fuse (impossible, but please do not do this) you will burn out the wiring. So if you do add a considerable amount of additional electrics to your vehicle don't piggy back of the existing wiring but use adequate wiring from the battery via a fuse. If all you are running is a satnav then you have nothing to worry about, you do not need additional wiring or a larger alternator or an additional fuse box. I don't think so Rob.

The winch isn't running from the alternator. It runs from the battery. The alternator is replenishing the battery not the winch. Even with a 120 amp alt I couldn't hope to touch the winch which is dragging something like 400 amps IIRC. Essentially all I am am doing is stretching out the point at which the winch stops. It's like filling a barrel with a hole in it. If the hole in the barrel is the same as the tap filling it, the level in the barrel never drops.

If the hole is bigger then the barrel level drops by the difference between the hole and the tap. With no alternator at all (ie the engine is off) then you just flatten the battery. If the engine is running then you are adding charge but not as fast as you are emptying it.The big current is running down the winch wire.

Not down the alternator wire. OK so I have a bigger alternator, I'd figure the current charging system can cope with that. But the headlights, radio, interior light, fag lighter wires do NOT need upgrading do they. You winch for generally short periods at a time so things catch up. OK if I utterly flattened the main battery would the alternator then ramp up and replace that as fast as it could?

Yes maybe it would. But that wasn't the question. The question was, if I simply fit a bigger alternator do I have to upgrade all my wiring? Please let's not make it more complicated than that.

A bigger capacity alternator does not put out a billion volts at a gillion amps and fry your electrics.Chris. Please forgive me if this sounds dumb but I think it may be right.Although the battery is a 'resovoir' for the current flow your winch is still connected directly to your alternator is it not (Weather through a fuse/kill switch etc.) so as soon as winching commences you start drawing extra current from the alt.

This is proven (I think) in my truck as the alt belt is a little slack and starts to squeal when I winch for more that about 20 seconds. OK so the 400 amps is running down the winch wire but the alt will still be running at full capacity won't it?I cant remember what I upped mine from and to (Think it was 90 to 120 amps) but it has been like that for about 2 years now and all seems fine and dandy. OK so here is a really simple explanation. No you do not have to do anything with your wires.OK, pretend I own a coal delivery business. I have a street with 30 houses.

They all burn one bag of coal per day. I have a lorry that carries 30 bags. Each day I deliver 30 bags, everyone's happy and I come home empty. One day, I buy a bigger lorry. I now can carry 40 bags of coal, but every day I come home with 10 bags still on. No one needs them. Shortly after that, some new houses are built.

And they all want a bag each every day. Well fancy that. I have that capacity. 10 spare bags. I can supply that and we're all happy. No one needed to build a bigger fire place, I didn't need bigger bags, the coal didn't burn any hotter.

Every house got what it needed.Now if someone builds some more houses, I will need a bigger lorry!Does that make sense? In short, who ever is telling you about needing bigger wires is talking complete bollocks. Mrs Smith at number 11 doesn't care what Mr Crabtree at 29 puts on his fire.

But if he's cold and wants another bag on Tuesday, he can have one - it doesn't affect anyone else. UNLESS I only have a small lorry and can't carry enough coal for everyone. So, you stick a bigger alternator on, IF you have times when you want a bit more power because of high demand. Let's say winching or running something extra like a compressor. It makes no difference to the other things running on your car.Chris.